Varietally speaking
George Balling | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 14 years, 10 months AGO
By some counts there are well over 500 different varietals of grapes used in the production of wine across the planet. No doubt some are duplicates or have such minor differences in their makeup and flavor profile they would be indistinguishable save for their place of origin. As a consumer though, it is at times nice to know what to expect from a particular varietal as you get ready to pull the trigger on a purchase. Given the substantial number of grapes, I will take you through the more common white grapes grown right here in our "neighborhood" and save some of those grown in other parts of the country, and for that matter, internationally for another time.
So in no particular order, here are some of the more common white grapes used to make wine right here in the Northwest.
Sauvignon Blanc, also known as Fume Blanc if it is fermented or aged in oak barrels, is planted in many locations in Washington, and Idaho. A very lean grape with flavors mainly focused on citrus, especially when done in stainless steel, is also capable of showing some green flavors that are accentuated mostly by harvest and winemaking and at times vineyard design. When done in oak, the wine shows softer rounder notes with some smokiness. Its origins are primarily from the Bordeaux region of France.
Two we like under $15 that we have carried in the past are from Terra Blanca winery in Benton City, Washington and the River Aerie Ron Bunnell's second label out of Prosser.
Pinot Gris, also known as Pinot Grigio, again depending on wine making style, is a very interesting grape in the vineyard as it is bronze in color but produces a beautiful wine of pale straw color.
When done in the French style of Gris, the grape shows lovely pear and apple flavors, as Grigio, the Italian style, the wine shows more citrus notes and if kept too restrained during winemaking can be a little thin. Seven Hills winery out of Walla Walla makes one of the best in our opinion, but don't leave Oregon out of the equation as the Benton Lane is another great choice.
While some Chardonnay is planted in Washington, more is done in Oregon with its typical Burgundian climate.
A rich white varietal that so many of us started our wine journey with typically shows great apple notes and a buttery finish that develops when the wine goes through the secondary malolactic fermentation, or "ML" the process of changing malic or fruit acid to lactic acid a milk acid.
For a change, seek out a Chard aged in stainless steel barrels or one where the grapes are not allowed to go through "ML." What you are likely to find is a delightful wine less dominated by oak and butter and more focused on the fruit. There are many great choices in both styles.
Viognier is growing in popularity and certainly is widely planted in Washington, while it is originally from the Rhone Valley of France. The best ones, in our opinion, are those allowed to be Viognier, as too many winemakers try to make it be Chardonnay.
The varietals are quite different as Viognier shows great aromatics of peaches, nectarines and the spring blossoms of both of those stone fruits. The palate flavors are similarly focused on peaches and nectarines.
While fermented dry in most every case, the varietal is rich and opulent on its own without any residual sugar. Again for a change seek out one done entirely in stainless steel. Two of our favorites are the Talcott Vineyard Viognier from aforementioned Seven Hills winery and owner winemaker Casey McClellan, and the Farm Boy Viognier from Robert Smasne.
Another grape that was for many of us our first foray into wine is Riesling. Originally from parts of Germany and the Alsace region of France, it is now widely planted throughout the United States, and more specifically in Washington. Many of us remember the overly sweet and cloying Rieslings of our youth but they are being made with more restraint now, although many winemakers still stop fermentation leaving residual sugar. Still others produce great desert and ice wine interpretations using the grape.
For variety, again talk to your wine professional about one where the residual sugar or "RS" is below 2 percent, or even completely dry for a refreshing change.
Also keep in mind that wines with "RS" can be chilled to "enamel shattering" temperatures while maintaining the fruit character unlike dry wines, making them great for hot summer days. One of our favorites is the 2 Mountain Riesling produced in Zillah, Wash.
As you can tell, winemaking has a lot to do with the aromas and flavors that end up in your glass, but hopefully this provides you with a starting point as you get to know more wines. In future columns we will tackle some of the red varietals and also other growing areas.
If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press, ldukes@cdapress.com.
George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene. www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.
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