One of the most confusing and at times confounding trends in the wine industry the last several years is the foundering of Syrah sales. Syrah is the principal red grape from the Rhone Valley in France as well as the Chateauneuf du Pape A.O.C. Chateauneuf du Pape translates to "New Castle of the Pope" from when the Pope of the Roman Catholic Church moved the Papacy to Avignon near Lyon, in the Rhone Valley. In addition, the grape does great in nearby Washington state and many parts of California, and when customers try it they will almost always buy a bottle. However, when it just comes to folks walking into the shop, no one seems to care.

Well, the trend is starting to turn. In the last couple of months, we have seen more and more of our customers and new folks to our shop walking in and asking about the varietal as well as blends where the predominate grape is Syrah. This is all good news to us more because of the noble stature of the varietal than the simple retail opportunity.

Wine made from the Syrah grape is noted for a meaty aromatic on the nose that you may pick up as a smoky maple note, that wine "geeks" describe as "bacon fat." Don't worry though no bacon is added to the wine and it is not bad for your cholesterol levels - rather this characteristic naturally develops from the varietal. As a confessed wine "geek" I find it wonderful.

The fruit notes on the wine in both aromatics and on the palate are of dark berries and dark stone fruit like plums. The wine can be quite viscous and the finish is long and supple when made well. Depending on winemaking, the Syrah grape can also develop some lovely notes of spices like herbs de Provence and some nice floral notes of violet.

One last note, do not confuse the grape with Petite Sirah. Petite Sirah is actually much closer in its DNA to Cabernet Sauvignon than it is Syrah, exhibiting more tannic structure and requiring a riper harvest to fully show its fruit character. Now for some recommendations:

One of our favorite producers of Rhone varietals and specifically Syrah is Bob Lindquist of Qupe winery near Santa Barbara, California. At $40, his Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Vineyard bottling is spendy but, in short, a spectacular wine with all of the Syrah characteristics mentioned above. Great for a special occasion.

One of our oft-mentioned favorite producers from Washington State, Ron Bunnell produces some fabulous Syrah from the Boushey McPherson and Clifton Hill Vineyards. His highlight though may be the Syrah based blend pic, translated from French meaning "at the moment." The 2007 vintage of this blend is fabulous with grilled meats in the summer and retails for about 34.

Our local wineries are not to be left out of the discussion, as we find the regular bottling of Coeur d'Alene cellars Syrah to be not only one of the best things they do, but one of the best from the Northwest. The wine is loaded with those dark fruit flavors and the winemaking staff at CDA Cellars does a great job of maintaining the varietal accuracy of the wine.

Syrah from Australia, Shiraz in their parlance, frequently has a very distinct Eucalyptus aromatic that we frankly find off-putting.

One that does not overdo that note, though, is the 2008 The Stump Jump Shiraz from d'Arenberg. The wine won a coveted spot in the Wine Spectator top 100 last year and is a steal at $11.

One last entry from California that we find compelling is the 2005 Ridge Lytton West Syrah for $36. We were blown away by the opulence of this wine when we first tried it and brought it into the shop that day.

Many of the 2007 Syrahs are either just being released or have yet to hit the market. Given the ripeness of the vintage we are excited to try the ones from these and other great winemakers, like Basel Cellars, Skylark Wine Company, Neyers and more. It will no doubt be exciting and delicious. We encourage you to try these or other Syrahs the next time you stop in to your local wine shop.

Talk to your wine professional about what you like from your wine, and I will bet they will be able to find a wine made from this great varietal to fit your palate.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press, ldukes@cdapress.com.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Fair and Rodeo wine competition. www.thedinnerpartyshop.com.