When you need to jam a lot of flavor into a simple dish, reach for an umami bomb.

That is, foods that are jammed with the fifth taste - savory (to go along with bitter, sweet, salty and sour). In a small package, these foods deliver seriously big and satisfying flavor. Things like Parmesan cheese, anchovies and steak. As far as leaving me satisfied, savory beats out sweet every time.

It's one of the reasons I'm such a fan of tapenade, a simple puree of olives, anchovies, garlic, capers, olive oil and thyme. It's salty, savory and pungently delicious. It can be spread on baked fish, used as a dip or spread for crusty bread, or do duty as a sandwich condiment.

And don't let the anchovies spook you. You'll never know they are there, but the flavor isn't the same without them.

Using the meat from a rotisserie chicken lends a great hefty, meaty texture to this wrap. But for convenience, deli-sliced turkey breast is a fine substitute.

Food Editor J.M. Hirsch is author of the cookbook "High Flavor, Low Labor: Reinventing Weeknight Cooking."

Roasted chicken wraps with tapenade

Start to finish: 20 minutes

Servings: 4

1 1/2 cups pitted Kalamata olives

2 anchovies

3 cloves garlic

2 teaspoons capers

3 tablespoons olive oil

Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

Pinch red pepper flakes

Salt and ground black pepper

4 large flour tortillas

Bibb or Boston lettuce leaves

Meat from a 1 1/2-pound rotisserie chicken

12-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained, patted dry and chopped

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

In a food processor, combine the olives, anchovies, garlic, capers, olive oil, lemon zest and juice, thyme and red pepper flakes. Pulse until very finely chopped. Season with salt and pepper, then pulse again.

Spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons of the tapenade over each tortilla. Top with several leaves of lettuce, then a quarter each of the chicken, red peppers and Parmesan cheese. Wrap the sides of the tortilla up around the fillings. The wraps can be eaten as is or heated in a 350 degrees oven.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 720 calories; 490 calories from fat (53 percent of total calories); 46 g fat (9 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 110 mg cholesterol; 50 g carbohydrate; 42 g protein; 4 g fiber; 2,740 mg sodium.