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North Idaho Cuisine II

Bill Rutherford | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 14 years AGO
by Bill Rutherford
| May 4, 2011 9:00 PM

Food tastes better when consumed at its origin. Keeping this in mind, I search for a North Idaho traditional meal. Inland Northwest cuisine pays homage to the traditions and culture of our region. Last week I offered food indigenous to this area - food grown, produced, prepared and harvested in the North Idaho Panhandle. The following recipe represents my view of North Idaho cuisine.

• Grilled North Idaho Elk Backstrap with a Fernan Mountain Huckleberry Demi-Glace on a bed of Palouse Lentils and Saint Maries Wild Rice Risotto topped with Laughing Dog Brewery's Huckleberry Cream Ale braised morel mushrooms - yum, yum!

Grilled North Idaho Elk Backstrap

What is an elk backstrap? Many believe the tenderloin and the backstrap are synonymous. They are not. The tenderloins are inside the ribcage near the pelvis. The backstraps are outside the ribcage straddling the spine from the front shoulder to approximately three-quarters back. The backstraps are large and the tenderloins are not. Both are tender, delicious cuts of meat and can be used interchangeably.

To cook the backstrap, cut diagonally into two-inch thick steaks, sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Grill steaks on each side for about 3 minutes on a hot grill. Overcooking wild game changes the sweet, pleasing wild meat flavor into a strong, liver-tasting, unpalatable flavor. For those who dislike the wild game flavor of elk, marinating the meat in milk or buttermilk (depending on the flavor profile desired) dilutes the gamey flavor and delivers a beef-like protein.

Fernan Mountain Huckleberry Demi-glace

Traditional demi-glace includes equal parts veal stock and brown sauce simmered, reduced and skimmed for hours until it becomes a beautifully thick, high-glossy brown sauce. I offer this quick demi-glace that replicates the original sauce in half the time.

Rub tomato paste on elk bones and roast in the oven with mirepoix (rough-cut carrots, celery and onions) whole garlic cloves and fresh thyme, oregano and rosemary. Once bones are fully caramelized, remove them from the oven and add to a stockpot. Fill with water and begin to simmer. Skim fat off the surface of the stock while stock is simmering. Continue simmering until sauce reduces by three-quarters. Remove bones and strain sauce to remove vegetables and herbs. Whip a roux (equal parts of butter and flour roasted until light brown) into the pot. Add huckleberries and continue simmering until huckleberries are soft. Stain again, bring back to a simmer and add unsalted butter. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

Palouse Lentils and Saint Maries Wild Rice Risotto

I make Risotto by cooking Arborio rice for 30 minutes in stock slowly added to the pan then finishing the rice with cheese and butter. This recipe is a bit different. First, cook lentils and rice separately in water until just undercooked. Melt butter in a saute pan and add shallots. Saute until translucent. Add two ladles of chicken stock and allow to reduce until almost gone. Add a small handful of Parmesan cheese and a large pat of butter. Stir until cheese melts.

Laughing Dog Brewery's Huckleberry Cream Ale Braised Morel Mushrooms

Melt butter over medium heat. Add mushrooms and increase heat to medium-high. Saute quickly until brown then deglaze the pan with a beer. Continue cooking until the mushrooms fully absorb the beer.

To build this dish, place risotto on the bottom of the plate and top with the grilled elk meat. Spoon the demi-glace on top of the steak and top with mushrooms.

My hope is when eating this meal the diner feels, breathes and consumes all that makes North Idaho my home. I wish this meal creates pleasurable memories of mountains, clean air, wildness, non-pretentiousness and comfort. I need the friend consuming this dish to feel wonderfully full and satisfied by of all that is North Idaho! Next week I will finish my North Idaho meal with pumpkin soup made with elk stock and Bardeney rum and an elderberry grunt.

Bill Rutherford is a psychotherapist, public speaker, elementary school counselor, adjunct college psychology instructor and executive chef, and owner of Rutherford Education Group. Please email him at bprutherford@hotmail.com and check out www.foodforthoughtcda.com.

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