MOSES LAKE - I was once asked to explain how I had managed to drive for all those years over all manner of roads and weather conditions, without having had an accident. I couldn't think of anything intelligent to say at the time, but having given it some thought over the years, let me build you a list. With the winter months upon us, this will mostly concern slippery roads and poor visibility

First and foremost, drive ahead of where you are. I recall one trip to the Washington/Oregon coast, heading back toward Portland, down Interstate 5, unloaded, about 30 degrees, on a bare dry pavement, after dark. About half a mile ahead of me, all manner of brake lights came on, and traffic seemed to be doing somewhat of a dance. I slowed from 55 mph to 45 mph and then to 35 mph. By this time I was in the area of the strange goings-on. The pavement was no longer bare and dry, but was covered with freezing rain, as was my windshield. I very slowly let things slow down further to about 25 mph, and then was not totally sure of being in control. I made it in, but I doubt I would have had I maintained the speed limit. Let there be enough room between you and the vehicle you are following so that no matter what happens, you are the first-on-the-scene rather than the last vehicle involved in a crash.

Second, should you ever drop a wheel off the edge of the road, gain control before you make any move to get all wheels back on the road. If you are too far gone to get it back on the road, aim it downhill to the best flat spot you can find. This may be the bar ditch, or it may be a field. Try to avoid trees and power poles. In this situation you have missed the "Keep it between the ditches" rule, but still have a good chance to "Keep the shiny side up." There are three things that can kill you at this point. One is a large tree. Another is rolling the car, being thrown out, and having the car roll over you. (You are wearing your seat belt, aren't you?) The third is the owner of the car, if you survive the crash. The usual scenario here, that involves state police and ambulance personnel, is for the driver to jerk the steering wheel quickly to get back on the road, shooting the car off the opposite side of the road, and a resulting jerk in the other direction sending it back to the first side, completely out of control, usually rolling over. Remember to get it under control, let it slow down by itself, then use just a little brake if needed, then very gently, ease it back onto the roadway.

Third, know how to handle a skid. I have taken each of my children, as teenagers for a ride, found a slick, snowy or icy flat area, and put the car into a skid, then, by turning into the skid, driven out of it. Yes, they see films and look at drawings in drivers' education class, but how many drivers' education instructors are going to let them feel a skid, and at least observe how to drive out of it?

Fourth, drive at speeds commensurate with your abilities. To quote a close friend, "The exuberance of youth far surpasses actual abilities." Think of the big guard dog here. Just because your friend can pet the dog, doesn't mean you can pet the dog. If you feel safe at 45 mph, then drive 45 mph. If another driver passes you at 55 mph, this does not mean you can safely drive at 55 mph. But if you are feeling safe at 35 mph and everyone else is feeling safe at 55 mph, then perhaps you need to examine your vehicle, its tires, or perhaps practice your slick-road skills on a less-traveled road. At times, prudence is the better part of valor. This means, hitch a ride, or stay home if the situation on the road makes driving with your vehicle, and your skills, imprudent. I've lost track of the number of times while driving the old hay truck, which I pulled it over and waited for a sand truck before proceeding.

Fifth, know how to read the road. An ice-covered road may be safe for 55 mph, or it may not be safe at l0 mph. If it's evenly iced-over and the temperature is ten below, you may well be safe on the straight, level parts of the road at 55 mph. With the same condition of ice on the road, but at 33 degrees, and it's time for you to wait for better conditions. Those of you with newer vehicles that have an outside temperature gauge, be aware that the temperature of the road and its ice cover may be 35 degrees, when your thermometer says its 25 degrees outside. This will happen when the sun is shining on the pavement. This may lead you to believe you are driving on well-frozen ice, when you are actually driving on running water on top of ice. Pay attention to the tread surface of the other cars on the road. If they are throwing water, then you are not driving on nice, frozen ice. If its snow you are driving on, and the tread surface of the tires is white, then things are probable nice and "sticky" for a secure ride. If, however, the surface of the tires is shinny black, then it's time to slow down and take it easy. Cold snow will stick to the tread of the tires; warm snow will turn to water, and "Yee haaa!" A slushy road is a danger that can put you in the ditch. The tracks in the slush will never match your tires, or the direction you want to go. Even a couple of inches of slush can change your direction of travel.

Sixth, consider your tires. For snow, tread depth is more important than tread type. Close to new all-season or highway tires will do you better than near-bald snow tires. A narrow tire will generally be a much better winter tire than a wide tire. For ice, a sipped tread style will do you the most good. To understand sipping, take a good thick telephone directory, and curl it so that the edge opposite the binding is no longer in line. Note that each page now exhibits a sharp edge. A sipped tire gives you many little sharp edges to grip the ice. A good sipped tire is almost as good as a quality studded tire, and without the annoyance of the noise, and having to have them off by a certain date each year. Have a good set of tire chains, and know how to put them on. Front wheel drive cars should have equal tires and chains on all four wheels. This will prevent the car from "Swapping ends" in a panic stop situation on ice. The same rule should apply to four-wheel drive or all wheel drive vehicles. Also, bear in mind that two-wheel drive vehicles have brakes on all four wheels. This means that a 4x4 will not stop any faster than a two-wheel drive unit.

Seventh, consider the welfare of the occupants. It drives me crazy to see people getting into their vehicles for a 40 mile drive in the dead of winter, wearing clothes adequate to keep them from freezing to death only until the heater kicks in. Pay attention to your environment, and prepare for the worst. While trucking in remote areas, standard equipment included two 5-pound bags of charcoal. The reason was, that should I have to leave the truck due to a blizzard, and then try to start it at 30 below, I'd be there a long time. But with the charcoal, I could create warmth under the engine that would enable me to start the truck in a couple of hours; which beats all "Billy Buckshot" out of waiting until the spring thaw to go about my business. I never needed it, but it was a comfort to have it there. (Note that you never, never want to use charcoal inside a vehicle or under it if you are inside. The carbon monoxide created will cause the blood of the occupants to lose its ability to carry oxygen to the body. And the deceased will be very displeased at the manner their friends attempt to console their widows.) For clarity, burning charcoal inside (or under) a vehicle will kill you. A five-gallon bottle of propane and a weed burner on a hose later replaced the charcoal.

Eighth, consider visibility. One purpose of your headlights is to see the road. The other is to be seen. If you have fog lights, get out on a foggy night and adjust them. If you get caught in fog, and some of your lights do nothing but cause a glare that the fog reflects back at you, then turn those off. The Royal City ambulance has one set of strobe lights that are not run in heavy fog for this very reason. If the vehicle you are following "disappears," slow down. It went somewhere, and is most likely still right there in front of you. Most likely, the fog has just thickened, and you just can't see it anymore. If you are driving in fog so thick that you elect to pull over until it clears up, get well off of the roadway, and turn all your lights off. This will prevent the next driver from thinking you are driving where you should, and running into you. Remember the story of the fellow who was following another vehicle in thick fog. When the lead vehicle abruptly stopped, the follower hit it. He then proceeded to shout at the driver for stopping in the middle of the road. The hit driver explained that he was now parked in his driveway in front of his garage. And for the love of Pete, do not drive in the fog with you emergency flashers going. You cannot see any better, nor can you be seen any better. And the traffic around you will think you have stopped.

Ninth, see that you can see out of your windows. It takes less time to clean the frost off of windows than to be pulled out of the ditch. It will also avoid for you a rude encounter with the nice man with the gun, badge, and ticket book. (Obstructed vision) Defrosters and windshield wipers that work are a must.

And finally, the tenth. Take time to think and to exercise good common sense. Happy sledding! (er, motoring)

Brad Nelson trucked hay for most of 20 years from southwest Idaho to the Washington-Oregon coast, and also to all manner of remote ranches in Idaho, Oregon, Nevada, and Montana. He is the author of "Tales of a Hay Hauler," printed in "The Progressive Forage Grower" magazine.