Navigating Italy and its many varietals
George Balling/The Dinner Party | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 12 years AGO
Italy is known for some of the most wonderful food, and produces all of the great wine to go with their culinary masterpieces. When it comes to pairing wine with food there is no place, in our opinion, where enjoying wine that is made where the dishes originate is more symphonic than Italy. Our domestic wines are great, but the ones from Italy do better with Italian food than any others produced in the world.
One of my fondest memories of traveling in Italy is having lunch in a small restaurant in Venice, enjoying a tray of marinated shellfish and other seafood with a glass of the briney, mineral-laced white wine made in the Friuli region just to the north, or a similar recollection of enjoying the rich hearty fare of Tuscany with some locally produced Chianti!
Just as the food of Italy is diverse, the wine and grape varietals used to produce it are even more varied. It has been said about Italy that no one really knows how many different grape varieties grow there since the same grape is called different things in different areas. Add in the somewhat arcane regulations from the different organizations that control such things around Italy and some lesser-known varietals that are grown in very small quantities, and the task of knowing precisely what is in each bottle is daunting and clearly more than we can cover in one article. We will revisit this subject from time to time to get helpful information in the hands of wine consumers.
With so many choices and nuances, it is important to have the guidance of a trusted wine professional who has tasted the Italian products. So, too, it is important that you try them for yourself, to learn which you enjoy the most. Finally, when it comes to pairing the wine with whatever Italian dish you are creating, a good place to start is with the wines produced in the same geographic area. Whether they be white or red, the old-world style was to create both wine and food together.
For many regions of Italy, the origin is part of the title on the wine label. Whenever wine finishes with d' followed by a regional name, it tells you the wine comes from that region. Barbera d'Asti comes from the area around the town of Asti in Piedmont, while Barbera d'Alba comes from the town of Alba, just a bit to the south of Asti. They produce very different interpretations of the Barbera grape and varying price points, too, as the wines from Asti are more sought-after and typically more expensive. Abruzzo, Alto Adige, Gavi and many other regions will appear on wine labels, designating the origin of the wine.
When it comes to wine regions of Italy, Tuscany is perhaps the most widely recognized. While there are many regions that produce great wines and many that are more expensive and sought-after, Tuscan wines are those that most domestic consumers know and are comfortable with. While there are many variations, two important designations to know about Tuscan wines are those tagged as Chianti Classico, with the black rooster on the neck band of the foil, and Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello di Montalcino is made in and around the small town of Montalcino and in order to be designated as such, it must be produced with 95 percent Sangiovese, and more specifically from the clone of Sangiovese called Grosso.
To be designated as Chianti Classico, the wine must be 85 percent Sangiovese with no clone specified, and the remaining 15 percent composition does not need to be disclosed. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is made in and around the small Tuscan town of Montepulciano primarily of Sagiovese, and should not be confused with the wines made from the Montepulciano grape varietal that is grown primarily in the Abruzzo region as well as some others.
Finally, over recent years we have seen the introduction of many "Super Tuscan" wines. The "Super Tuscan" designation has no meaning in Italy and is the result of wineries creating blends primarily for the American market and palate that contain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and other varietals with Sangiovese. The wines, while delicious and in many cases more affordable than those designated from the more regulated appellations of Tuscany, have no requirements on varietal composition.
Early in 2014, we will feature another column that delves into additional areas of Italy and the grape varietals that grow there. For wine consumers, we encourage you to try the wines from this old-world country. Stop by the shop or consult your favorite wine professional about the wines that might go best with what you create in your home kitchen, or what Italian-influenced dishes you contemplate at our local restaurants.
If there is a topic you would like to read about or if you have questions on wine, you can email [email protected], or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party, a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine).com. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles, as well as other great wine tips, by friending us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.
ARTICLES BY GEORGE BALLING/THE DINNER PARTY
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