Of sulfites and drought
George Balling/The Dinner Party | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 10 years, 11 months AGO
While we try to keep our articles to a single subject so we can get depth of information out to wine consumers concerning the weekly subject, we received multiple questions this week on the drought currently gripping the state of California, including the wine grape-growing regions. We also learned some information about sulfite levels in commonly consumed foods that may help those who suffer with wine allergies.
Several inches of rain are predicted this coming weekend for the wine producing regions of Northern California including Mendocino, Lake, Napa, and Sonoma counties. The storm is expected to help with the severe drought conditions all the way south to the Central Coast. With all of the press from this historic dry spell, many have asked about the effects on the 2014 wine grape crop. There are two answers.
For long-time growers in the most storied of wine regions like Napa, Sonoma, and the other appellations of the northern part of the state, we are less concerned. The growers of fine wine grapes have dealt with the cycle of drought in California for decades, and are at the vanguard of water conservation in the industry simply because they have to be. The growers and wineries not only conserve on how much they use; many also reprocess their "gray water" and hold it in irrigation ponds that is then used to water the vines.
Coupled with the old adage, "you pamper flowers and vegetables, but grape vines should be tortured," the effects of the drought should be minor. Many of the best vineyards are actually dry farmed, meaning no irrigation at all. This "old world" technique forces the vines to work harder at producing fruit. While it decreases yields, it also concentrates flavors and character in the grapes, resulting in better wine. Even for those grape ranches that do irrigate, they do so sparingly and at some point midsummer, cut irrigation altogether to develop the same complexity and depth of flavor that dry farmed ranches garner on their own.
The second answer regards bulk wine grape producers that farm in less desirable appellations like the central valley of California. These producers are focused almost strictly on yield. They irrigate a lot. They are located far from the coast in areas that, regardless of the weather, naturally receive less rain. Most of the grapes they grow are used in production of bulk wines, whether they be in box or bottle. For these growers and for growers of vegetables and other fruits in the same area, the drought is more problematic and will likely result in price increases and potential problems with the crop.
As Cliff Harris says, "only time will tell." But we expect the wine grape crop for most of the high caliber wine grapes and wines in 2014 to be minimally affected, while the bulk market may have more problems with yields and pricing.
We received some interesting data a couple of weeks back from one of our distributors that showed sulfite levels in wine versus foods that many of us consume on a regular basis. Sulfites in wine are one of the two frequent causes of wine allergies. For some, they are very debilitating, even causing migraines in some wine consumers. While nearly all wineries use some level of sulfur-based chemicals during the winemaking process, we have found that European producers in general use a lower level than domestic producers. Generalities, though, are fraught with peril, as there are always exceptions.
What struck us more, though, is the list of foods that have far greater sulfite quantities than any wine. Here is the list. According to the information we received, a well-made dry red wine will have under 100 parts per million (ppm) of sulfites. Candy has about three times that level, fruit jam about four times the level, bulk commercial wines and soda pop are tied at about six times the level, packaged meats and prepared or canned soup about eight times as much, frozen fruit juice nine times. At the top of the scale are French fries with over 1,850 ppm and dried fruit with nearly 3,600 ppm of sulfites.
While reactions to sulfite levels in wine are all too familiar to wine consumers, this may help identify other foods that can be contributing to your allergic reactions either on their own, or in combination with consumption of wine.
If there is a topic you would like to read about or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party, a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George is also the managing judge of The North Idaho Wine Rodeo and is the wine editor for Coeur d'Alene Magazine (www.cdamagazine.com). You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles, as well as other great wine tips, by friending us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.
ARTICLES BY GEORGE BALLING/THE DINNER PARTY
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