How early is early?
George Balling | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 9 years, 5 months AGO
We are fast approaching the 2015 wine grape harvest in the appellations of the western United States, perhaps even faster than we would expect, so it seems an appropriate time to check in with growers and winemakers on their expectations for the vintage. With all the warm dry conditions we have seen throughout the growing season, we he have been hearing consistently from California all the way up to Washington and Idaho that the harvest would be early.
The question is, how early is early? Well, it's really early! This week, we spoke with Victor Palencia, who is responsible for a lot of wine production in Washington, and he feels that first pick white varietals like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris are a mere ten days away. In all of our years in and around the wine industry, this may be the earliest we have ever heard of.
On red wine grapes, Victor is projecting the end of September for the start of harvest. This is also very early, but even more striking is some of the "color commentary" Victor provided. As red wine grapes ripen, sugar levels are the first part of the puzzle to fall into place. With extended "hang time," the grapes further develop the flavor profile the winemaker seeks. Also, with more time on the vines acids come into balance as the weather cools and the nights grow longer. A long warm and dry late summer and early fall is nirvana for winemakers, and the way things are shaping up it looks like the perfect late season.
We heard from another grower with vineyards in Northern California that harvest of white grapes for sparkling wine is already under way, with harvest of early-ripening white varietals for still wine scheduled to start within two weeks. Our friends at Balletto Vineyards are deploying bird netting and seeing yellowjacket damage on Pinot Noir, illustrating just how far along the Pinot crop is in the Russian River Valley. When the yellowjackets and birds get interested, that tells us just how high the sugar levels are.
John Lancaster of Skylark Wine Company is projecting a similar schedule for white harvest, with his Pinot Blanc being picked somewhere between Aug. 17 and 20. John sees very good quality in the vintage and good tonnage, but down slightly from the previous blockbuster years of 2012, '13 and '14. Like all we have talked to, John is seeking and hoping for good "hang time" on his reds, but sounded one cautionary note. John warned "that with the looming El Nino, most in California will be anxious to get the grapes off as quickly as possible." One of the most dangerous times for rains to hit is in the late summer and early fall when the grapes are fully ripened, and absorbent. This is when heavy rain, a risk in El Nino years, does its damage.
The final big risk of the 2015 vintage - for all in the wine business, from Walla Walla to Chelan, and from Napa to Lake County - is smoke. During and after verasion (the changing of red wine grapes from green to purple), the grapes will absorb the most smoke, and as John said "once it's there, it's there." Coming from a winemaker who lost an entire year of Grenache to smoke, the words are impactful. No amount of chemistry and manipulation can remove the smoke taint from grapes once it is present. Only time will tell how much of the grape stock has sustained damage with all of the wildfires, but there will certainly be some. It will make trying before you buy important when reds from 2015 get released in a couple of years.
While the crop looks very good with respect to quality, notwithstanding those with smoke exposure, and of good size; this is the time of year when growers and winemakers alike commence with hand wringing. We are at perhaps the riskiest time of the year. We will continue to monitor conditions and report on any big changes. We encourage you to stop in the shop or consult with your favorite wine professional about the progress of harvest, as we all look forward to the favorite phrase for the end of grape picking...."And they're off!"
If there is a topic you would like to read about, or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and tabletop decor shop by Costco in Coeur d'Alene. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions, and his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles and other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.
ARTICLES BY GEORGE BALLING
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