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Trends in blends

George Balling | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 9 years, 9 months AGO
by George Balling
| March 25, 2015 9:00 PM

Blended wines have been gaining popularity for several years. Whites and reds that are not full varietal appeal to consumers, as most times they are smoother and offer complexity from the varietal combinations. For winemakers, the exercise of blending wines is the means to accentuate their favorite things about their wine, and to mitigate the characteristics they find less appealing. It is one of the many things we feel they ought to do to produce delicious wine.

While many times blending is needed to account for vintage and varietal shortcomings like this, other times it is done to meet customer demand for flavors, textures, and aromatics that are clearly driven by a consumer trend. One of the emerging trends in blends is whites that are a combination of Viognier and Chenin Blanc. In just the last several months we have tasted a half a dozen lovely white wines that are a combination of these two varietals. The melding of these two grapes is intriguing. Chenin is known for crisp racy acidity that is citrus focused most times and steely in its presentation. Viognier on the other hand is known for peach blossom floral notes and white peach and nectarine palate flavors. The grape also frequently shows oily viscosity and richness in the mouth.

Both varietals do their best when they are not fermented and aged not in oak barrels. When combined they develop a balance between the richness of the Viognier and the bracing acidity of the Chenin Blanc that is truly wonderful. The flavors are exotic without being over the top and are one of the new blends that we frequently bring home to enjoy!

In reds, the blends that we get to taste seem endless at times. One of the most popular - that has been around for a very long time, but continues to show up from new wineries - is GSM or Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre. This blend of the three most prominent red Rhone varietals is the basis for Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, as well as many southern Rhone blends from France. It also is a mainstay for Washington state wineries, as all three varietals are widely planted there and do very well in the terroir.

Grenache contributes bright juicy fruit, Syrah dark earthy and meaty notes, and Mourvedre structure and dark purple color that is unmistakable. The blends of these three grapes that are made domestically are typically very affordable consistent and readily available throughout the year.

Another winemaker trick that is more frequently disclosed now as a blending strategy is the addition of Petite Sirah to many varietals in challenging years. Petite Sirah with its close varietal relationship to Cabernet thick skins and small berries adds much structure and color to wines that can use a bit of "firming up" in cool years. For years, winemakers seemed embarrassed to reveal the Petite Sirah they added in, and in some cases we agree. I am not enthusiastic about the idea of adding it to delicate grapes like Pinot Noir or Gamay where it can mask the true nature of those wines. It is though a great addition to Zinfandel, Cabernet, Syrah and many of the fuller bodied varietals. This past weekend Jonathan Oberlander, the winemaking master at J Scott winery in Oregon even revealed that he added a "few buckets" of Petite Sirah skins to his Grenache to enhance the character, which we applaud as the wine is fabulous. We feel strongly that this style of blending is what winemakers need to do to produce good tasting wine, but it is also a trend that is garnering applause from consumers.

Another grape we are seeing more in domestic blends is Petite Verdot. One of the five primary Bordeaux varietals the grape is being planted more now in the U.S. and showing up like Petite Sirah in blends to add color, structure and complexity to the main grape in a wide array of wines. With its dark berry and cherry flavors, it really adds intrigue to a variety of wines beyond the traditional Bordeaux blends it has shown up in previously.

The world of wine both white and red is always changing and new blends will always crop up, so check with your favorite wine professional or stop by the shop to learn about the latest new arrivals.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.

George Balling is co-owner with his wife Mary Lancaster of the dinner party - a wine and table top decor shop in Coeur d'Alene by Costco. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions. His articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.

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ARTICLES BY GEORGE BALLING

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