An icon passes
George Balling | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 9 years, 8 months AGO
I was just down in the Napa Valley on business last week. I went down to see wineries and winemakers, try some new things, reacquaint myself with old favorites, and see what the new trends are in the cradle of all things wine. I had lunch scheduled too with our dear friend Bill Phelps. I know Bill through Mary, who has known him for 30 years. I met him later, after leaving our first careers when I was just getting started in the wine business.
The day before we were to have lunch, I went to Joseph Phelps Vineyards to taste through the full lineup. That is when I learned that Bill's dad Joseph had passed away the previous week. I never got to know Joe personally, but being in the wine business it is impossible not to know about his contributions to the American wine world, and his status as one of the founding pillars of the industry.
In my few days in "the valley" last week, so recently after Joe's death, I not only learned a great deal about him, but was also struck by how "small" and close knit Napa remains. It is interesting; our perception of Napa Valley and of folks so instrumental in its development like Joseph Phelps is at times larger than life. All glitz and glamour, if you will. I learned better.
Bill and I met for lunch at Bottega, the great restaurant in Yountville founded by celebrity chef Michael Chiarello. When Bill arrived the young server taking care of us came up and said "Hi Mr. Phelps." It took Bill a minute, but he quickly realized our server Eric is the son of his Dad's long time assistant of 38 years. The conversation ensued and I learned that Eric's mom had in fact been to see Joe just before he passed away. Bill went on to tell me how Bottega, Chiarello, and his previous restaurant Tra Vigne were his Dad's favorite places and Michael his favorite chef in the area. We met Michael after lunch when we were leaving and there was a heartfelt conversation between Michael and Bill about his Dad that was touching.
Later, while visiting with some of the senior folks at Trinchero Estates in St. Helena, the family owned company that owns Sutter Home, I again learned of the close and deep connection going back decades between the Trinchero and Phelps families. And so it continued in stop after stop over the next few days, all knew Joseph Phelps well. All shared stories of how vital he had been to the formation of the industry, and how much he innovated over his career.
Joe came to the industry by passion from a first career in construction in Colorado. He loved wine. His passion drove his entry into the business and his relentless innovation. Joe started his winery in 1973 and introduced Insignia, the now sought after Bordeaux blend that won wine of the year from The Wine Spectator a few years back. He was also one of the first to make Syrah bottled varietally in the States. He would later create Ovation Chardonnay that was one of my true wine epiphanies.
The wine club at Joseph Phelps was one of the first I joined on only my second trip ever to Napa early in my wine consuming history. I stayed in the club for more than 10 years, learned much, and even got the idea for including wine pairing recipes for each wine shipped, which we include in the dinner party wine club. The Ovation Chardonnay was always one of my favorites. We would buy the wine by the case every year. After we opened the shop we would still consume Ovation from our personal collection. Some of the bottles of this great California Chard were over 20 years old, and everyone we opened was delicious. This was Joe's innovative influence. Make Chardonnay from California that possessed all of the right character that consumers wanted, but that had great acid and was more age worthy than any.
His innovations went beyond wine and winemaking though to viticulture. There are strains of Syrah and other varietals that bear Joe's name. The Phelps Clones are well known and used throughout the grape growing industry around the country, producing some of the best wine grape fruit to be had.
Bill and his three sisters were all with Joe when he passed and had managed to allow Joe to travel to his beloved home in France in recent years too. Napa Valley remains close knit and "smaller" than we realize from afar. An industry icon and one of the foundations of it like Joseph Phelps, while respected and appreciated by wine consumers, was beloved by those closest to him - the friends and family that knew him not as an icon, but just as Joe. His innovation, creativity and guiding force will be missed, but as I learned last week not nearly as much as the man.
If there is a topic you would like to read about or questions on wine you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d'Alene Press.
George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and tabletop decor shop by Costco in Coeur d'Alene. George has also worked as a judge in many wine competitions; his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.
ARTICLES BY GEORGE BALLING
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