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Holding on to the best of Wine Country

George Balling | Hagadone News Network | UPDATED 8 years, 7 months AGO
by George Balling
| June 15, 2016 9:00 PM

Wine seems to be filled with contradictions. How can the finished fermented product taste so luscious and at times sweet, and yet there is no sugar left in the wine? How do we embrace all of the great new wines we taste regularly, while still holding on to our old favorites? Some of our fondest memories are of wine country decades ago when we started our wine journey, at the same time, we are headed to new destinations of the ever-evolving world of wine and wine country.

These are just some parts of the business of wine that seem constantly at odds. In an industry that generates tremendous passion, there is always reconciliation to be done between styles, between new and old, between sweet and dry, and on and on…

When Robert Mondavi passed away three years ago at 95, it still shocked us. We somehow thought he would be there forever, even though his namesake winery had been sold and the Mondavi family was no longer involved. You travel to Napa now, and while the old favorite names are still around, they seem changed and somehow diminished by the wave of shiny new wineries, funded with fortunes only recently made.

It is nearly impossible to talk about the Washington wine industry without the subject of Woodinville coming up. Yet in our minds, it is tough to see one industry when looking at the recent bloom of tasting rooms congregated in an endless string of industrial parks in Woodinville, and also include Gordy Venneri’s iconic red barn in Walla Walla, the home to this day of Walla Walla Vintners.

We could go through every appellation in the western United States and find the same contradictions between what is old and somehow romantic and what the future holds. We are not arguing against the new and shiny, the current and innovative, but we are trying for our own sentimental reasons to hold onto those locales, the images of buildings and vineyards that are seared in our memories.

We advocate for visiting all parts of wine country new and old, both domestically and abroad. There is tremendous knowledge to be gained by doing so. There are many wines to be found too, that will inspire every wine consumer. For many of us, this may not present a contradiction or conflict at all. For our reminiscent side, though, we like to hold on to those old names and old memories. Here are our suggestions for the occasional trip down memory lane in your favorite appellation:

Go at an off time. Whether you choose to visit wineries in the winter and spring, or if you go in the middle of the week, or just avoid the big event weekends like barrel tasting, you will get a much keener sense of not only the bucolic nature of these areas, but also the quiet pace of the “valleys.” You will also have a much better chance of spending time with winemakers and other winery folks when you are not there with the throngs.

Seek out some of the truly quaint venues. If you are in Sonoma, find a way to get to McMurray Ranch and Pagani Ranch. In Napa go and see Trefethen and Pride and Failla to really experience some of the most peaceful settings amidst the “Disneyland of Wine” that much of Northern California has become. Similarly, for Washington, skip the downtown tasting rooms and the winery beehive that has become Woodinville and opt for driving out of town a bit to see Rich Funk at Saviah and Gordy Venneri at Walla Walla Vintners.

Make an appointment wherever you are headed. We are always here to help, just call or email the shop and we will help to schedule some visits around wine country, whichever one is your destination, so you can really get a feel for the true nature of these beautiful areas. We can also make suggestions about the best time to visit.

Finally, go back into your wine collection, or your tasting notes or just your memory bank and recall your old favorites. Make those your first stops, there will be plenty of time for the more innovative visits but visiting the old names will allow you to maintain that connection to what you hold dear about wine and wine country and embrace those distant and wonderful places.

If there is a topic you would like to read about or if you have questions on wine, you can email George@thedinnerpartyshop.com, or make suggestions by contacting the Healthy Community section at the Coeur d’Alene Press.

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George Balling is co-owner (with his wife Mary Lancaster) of the dinner party, a wine and table top décor shop located by Costco in Coeur d’Alene. George worked as a judge in many wine competitions, and his articles are published around the country. You can learn more about the dinner party at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com. Be sure and check out our weekly blog at www.thedinnerpartyshop.com/home/blog-2 You can get all of these articles as well as other great wine tips by friending us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/#!/dinnerpartyshop.

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ARTICLES BY GEORGE BALLING

April 20, 2016 9 p.m.

Washington's wine is growing up

Every appellation has gone through it. The best go through it sooner rather than later and also go through it multiple times revisiting the issue of terroir driven winemaking. Oregon has yet to go through it as they continue to overemphasize terroir driven acid levels in their Pinot Noir. California has watched as the pendulum of overly done Chardonnay has swung towards overly lean stainless steel Chardonnay, and is now starting to settle in the middle with an array of finely honed elegantly balanced white wines.

September 21, 2016 9 p.m.

Trying something new - just once

Last week we attended Opera Coeur d’Alene’s production of The Barber of Seville. Mary and I have long been fans of opera in general, but we especially have loved opera here in our own town. The caliber of performers and the opera performances here is truly extraordinary. We have found though over time that there are many preconceived thoughts about opera and whether or not an individual will “like” it. The hurdle though is getting someone to try opera. Like so many things in the big world of wine there are notions about many wines that if you can get consumers past an idea to the point of actually trying something new, they are surprised at how much they enjoy it!

August 31, 2016 9 p.m.

Our fall 2016 lineup

By the time this column “hits” the paper, and the paper lands on your doorstep, it will be September 4th, and we will be in the Labor Day holiday weekend. While this means we are about to enter the fall season, it also means we are about to start our winemaker dinners and tastings again.