ROYAL CITY — The right cook finally came along, and owner Larry Myrick has opened Judy’s, on Highway 26, again.

“We opened softly and quietly on Feb. 4, no advertising,” Myrick said.

Judy’s has had a storied recent history since the original Judy retired several years ago. There have been four operators since. The third and fourth are the same, but the dining fare will be different.

Myrick’s first time around featured upscale, upper-crust dining to the extent it could be done in a country setting. He’s going back to plain old country food.

After closing late last summer, Myrick started looking for a cook who would do what he wanted. He spoke to several. She finally walked in the door early this year.

Nely Huerta had 10 years of restaurant experience in Nevada before moving to Washington recently. She came to do farm work. Then a friend told her about the Judy’s opportunity.

“I thought about it and then said, ‘oh what the heck, let’s go see,’” she said.

Huerta was just what Myrick wanted.

“She is fantastic cook, and she keeps everything spotlessly clean,” Myrick said.

Huerta will run the restaurant as Myrick wants, and she prepares both American and Mexican cuisine.

“So far, it’s about half and half,” Huerta said.

A friend of Myrick’s waited tables the first weekend, mostly as a favor. Then she told her granddaughter, recent Wahluke High School graduate Melissa Coronado, about the job. She’s now the server.

“She waits tables but, really, she helps Nely with whatever she needs,” Myrick said.

Although Myrick sets the scene and the rules, he does not hover over the ladies. They’re on their own.

“They operate the restaurant,” he said.

Besides, Myrick has to manage the wine tasting, which continues. And he has to get the produce section ready for early crops such as asparagus.

Judy’s is open from 10 a.m. to about 8 p.m. A late breakfast is available followed by lunch and dinner.