Fresh salmon takes center stage at the table

The cold waters of the Gulf of Alaska and the Bering Sea are bringing forth Nature’s prime gift — Salmon.

Blessed as I am to have a son residing in Kodiak — who often provides me with the incomparable gift of fresh salmon, crab, scallops and more treasures of the sea — the salmon is my hands-down favorite. Today’s column, therefore, will salute that great fish in its many guises: King — the great red (known as “Jacks” when young); Sockeye, also red and many people’s favorite; Chinook, another popular red; Coho — or Silver with pink/orange flesh; pink Humpys — all boasting the incomparable salmon flavor in varying degrees of taste and texture. The famed Copper River salmon is a King — and I actually caught one there years ago on a visit to son Grant and his family.

While the inarguably most impressive (and easiest) way to serve salmon is whole or halved and baked — whether on a plank, wrapped in foil, topped or stuffed with lemon slices, fennel or dill fronds and grilled on the BBQ — the adaptable salmon takes the culinary spotlight however served. I will therefore remind you of its enhancement to pasta dishes. From spaghetti, linguini, capellini — ad infinitum, all you need is cooked pasta, simple sauce — alfredo is preferable to tomato — a bit of garlic and some grated Parmesan cheese, toss in some salmon chunks sautéed quickly in olive oil and dinner is served!

Look for the “Wild Caught” sign on the supermarket offerings and avail yourself of this healthful, elegant, delectable ocean denizen. We begin with our pictured specialty.

Alaska Salmon

Nicoise Salad

1¼ cup Italian dressing

1½ pounds poached or cooked salmon, chunked

2 pounds red potatoes, peeled, cooked, quartered

1 pound whole green beans, cooked (fresh best, canned OK)

1 pound ripe tomatoes, sliced in vertical narrow wedges

½ large can pitted black olives, drained

3 hard-cooked eggs, halved

1 large bag of mesclun, butter lettuce, or baby lettuces, rinsed, tossed

Capers as needed

In a large bowl, drizzle ½ cup of the dressing over the salmon chunks; set aside. In another bowl, drizzle ½ cup dressing over warm, chunked potatoes. Just before serving time, in a large salad bowl, arrange lettuces, then the potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, olives, egg halves and the salmon (make it beautiful)! Drizzle all lightly with dressing and sprinkle some capers on the egg halves. Serve with remaining dressing on the side.

Here’s an elegant formal-style supper salad for special company. This one’s fancy enough for Champagne!

Smoked salmon with

Spinach, Brie and Walnuts

(for two, double or triple as needed)

¼ cup olive oil

1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 smoked salmon chunk (shrink-wrapped wild-caught) in size needed — thawed, cut into bite-size pieces

4 cups spinach leaves, torn into bite-size pieces

½ cup thinly sliced red onion

6 ounces Brie cheese, diced*, room temperature

2 center slices of French bread loaf

½ cup toasted walnut pieces

Whisk oil and vinegar to blend in a small bowl; season to taste with salt and pepper. Combine spinach, onion and half of the cheeses in a salad bowl. Set aside.

Preheat broiler: Divide remaining cheese evenly atop the bread slices. Broil until cheese melts, about 1 minute. Cut toasts diagonally in half.

Toss salad with enough dressing to coat well; divide between two plates. Sprinkle equally with walnuts. Arrange 2 hot toast halves at edge of each plate and serve.

Some time ago, friend Nancy Chavis gave me a great salmon cookbooklet she obtained while a long-time resident of Homer, Alaska. Nancy is a cherished worker at Sanctuary Seconds, the thrift store benefiting the Lifetime Friends Cat Sanctuary. We’ve exchanged Alaska stories often, and I once took the big ferry out of Homer to Kodiak Island on a visit. (It’s an overnight trip and a real adventure — especially when the ocean is grumpy). Anyhow, I particularly liked the following recipe, which accepts salmon in any form — even canned. Enjoy.

Salmon Quiche

1 prebaked 9-inch deep dish pie shell

1 tablespoon butter

¼ cup EACH minced onion, celery, bell pepper

1 7¾ oz. can salmon, well-drained or 1 cup cooked salmon

1 ½ cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese

4 eggs

1 ¼ cups evaporated milk (I use ½&½ )

Salt and pepper to taste

Dash of dill weed

2 tablespoons chopped green onion w/tops

Preheat oven to 325. In small skillet melt butter: add onion, celery and bell pepper (I prefer red). Saute until onion is translucent. Arrange veggie mixture evenly in bottom of baked pie shell. Crumble salmon in an even layer over vegetables; sprinkle evenly with cheese. In bowl combine eggs, milk, salt, pepper and dill weed, blending well. Pour over cheese. Sprinkle with green onion. Bake 50-60 minutes or until browned and firm but not overdone. (Test with knife blade — it should come out clean but moist.)

Cool 5-10 minutes before cutting and serving. Offer a dish of sour cream for topping.

Note: I occasionally re-print recipes that are very special and/or often requested. While the Salmon Nicoise has run before, I feel it is such a classic as to be made available to new readers.

Valle Novak writes the Country Chef and Weekend Gardener columns from the Daily Bee. She can be reached at [email protected].