Climbing in Thailand:

Stepping off the international tarmac, a tidal wave of warm air rushed past my 70-liter backpack, filled to the brim with everything someone could need for a month in the stifling heat of Thailand.

Hailing the first of our many Grab rides (Asia’s Uber ride service), we weaved through the condensed urban corridors of Bangkok, Thailand’s largest city. From our hotel, the skyscrapers seemed to stretch for miles in every direction, many of which were constructed into futuristic shapes that pierced the skies above. 

Thailand is known for its friendly and rich culture, incredible food, stunning landscapes, and yes, world-class rock climbing, which was more than enough reason to visit Southeast Asia this fall. Ella Kuzyk and I toured dazzling temples that dotted the city centers, ate outstanding meals (some of which cost less than $1), and toured the major cities of Bangkok and Chiang Mai to start our nearly month-long trip. 

After touring the sites, it was time to relax and enjoy the lush jungles of northern Thailand. Our first stop was the otherworldly climbing area known as the “Crazy Horse Buttress” outside of Mae On. The limestone walls towered above thick jungles where pocketed rock, stalactites, and darkened caves awaited. The rocks looked as if a great fire had boiled below them, melting the wall into inverted candlesticks of stellar climbable features. The climbing, unimaginable. We weaved up major stalactites like spiral staircases, explored cave systems, and climbed from the interior of the earth to the cathedral towers high above Crazy Horse. Our evenings were spent enjoying local street vendors and sharing smiles with the locals who seemed to thoroughly enjoy the tourists exploring their slice of heaven. Exploring the quiet towns of Mae On and Mae Kampong, we appreciated the unhurried lifestyle of the locals living in these jungle towns high in the mountains. Countless fresh fruit smoothies, more incredible (and spicy) Thai cuisine, and miles of jungle hiking trails characterized the next few days of exploring northern Thailand. 

A domestic flight south landed us in the salty (and still humid) Gulf of Thailand. Sea Towers, faraway islands, and smells of tropical fruits captured our imagination as we traveled by ferry to the quaint island of Koh Tao. Arriving at the pier in Tao was anything but serene, as busy bodies lined the narrow streets, many zooming past on motorbikes that zig-zagged through the foot traffic.

Thankfully, our hotel awaited above the fray, and we were once again at peace as we savored the first of many oceanside meals. Exploring the neighboring islands, we taxied by boat to the surrounding beaches surrounded by aqua blue water and white sand beaches. 

Unlike the mainland, Koh Tao consisted of stunning granite pinnacles that dotted the shoreline. We explored a number of climbing crags that sat just feet from the crashing waves below. Starting at the ocean and climbing our way to the top of the pinnacled skyline made for a surreal adventure, as the featured granite was some of the finest we’d ever climbed. Walking the rolling hills at night, we enjoyed the night markets, fire dancers, and friendly people who called this Utopia home.

Planes, trains, boats, buses, and tuk-tuk bike rides made for a jam-packed journey back to the mainland and the western coast of Thailand to the Krabi province along the Andaman Sea. Exploring the coastline along the bustling streets of Ao Nang, we admired the shell-covered sand that washed harmoniously across the palm tree-lined beachside. The wild, stalactite-covered cliffsides guarded the coastline, towering arches of rock reaching over the sea, inspiring us to clamber up their steep faces. 

A boat taxi ferried us to the nearby climbing mecca of Tonsai beach, which would be our home base for the remainder of the trip. Bolted sport climbs gleamed in every direction from our quiet oasis along the beach. We explored nearby cliffsides where macaque monkeys darted in every direction overhead, making the difficult climbing moves on our intended route seem elementary.

Climbing into sunset, we took in the breathtaking views of the aqua-green water hundreds of feet below before rappelling into the night. The nearby Freedom Bar would be the start of our next multi-pitch climb. The route weaved up the jutting cliff that arched over the buildings of Tonsai below. The climbing worked its way through stalactite overhangs, steep stemming moves between candlesticks, and an unforgettable span across the abyss to reach a perfect belay cave above. Every pitch was brilliant, and we couldn’t help but smile as one route after another seemed like the best rock we’d ever climbed. 

With our trip days dwindling, we made the most of exploring the nearby area, taking in the local culture of this secluded spot, eating whole steamed fish, exploring the other nearby islands, and experiencing the strange animals that slithered into the night. 

Improbable cave climbs above the beach made for a fantastic finish to our time in Tonsai. After bartering with local long boat drivers we caught a midday boat back to the nearby urban center of Ao Nang. Our final day was spent ferrying climbing gear to the Ao Nang Tower, located just off the coastline, where a fantastic final day climbing would be spent above the crashing waves. We were dropped off on the fixed ropes to approach the tower and waved goodbye to our cheerful driver as he sped back to the mainland, leaving us alone with the overhanging red ocean tower above. 

The climbing was phenomenal, every move better than the last, eventually depositing us in a secluded cave below the final stalactite pitch. The last of my dwindling strength was used to clip the final anchor and holler in excitement as the Ao Nang tower was surely one of the best climbs in the world. 

We reached the sea below after a series of rappels and finished packing our bags just as our boat driver arrived back at the tower. We danced across the rippling waves, eyes wide and smiles plastered to our faces as the Ao Nang tower disappeared from view, leaving the endless blue ocean as our last view before heading home.

    The daily commute by long boat to the Ao Nang Tower for some rock climbing. Seth Anderson Photo.
 SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY   

    Ella Kuzyk stems outon to Tufa during a day climbing on Tonsai Beach in Thailand. Seth Anderson Photo.
SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY

    Rhesus Macaque monkeys were abundant near the climbing areas in Thailand. Seth Anderson Photo.
 SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY   

    Ella Kuzyk rappels back down into the Crazy Horse Chrisis Cave after climbing up and out of the tunnel's hole above. Seth Anderson Photo.
 SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY