Climbing in Glacier: Gunsight climb a unique route up a familiar peak

Finding myself clambering up the all-too-familiar Sperry basin trail before daybreak, my shoes crunched along trying to keep up with my climbing partner Adam Cazell, who raced on ahead of me.

The reason for our predawn departure was to attempt a technical rock route on Gunsight Mountain’s Northwest face.  During a trip to the Sperry Glacier in early July to photograph a story for the Hungry Horse News, the jutting face gleamed in the afternoon sun, a number of routes catching my eye on the potentially unclimbed side of Gunsight. Jonesing for a substantial day in the Glacier backcountry, Cazell was more than apt to load our packs with ropes, rock protection, and enough lunch to get us back to the trailhead before nightfall.  

The zig-zagging trail smelled of fresh raspberries, contrasted by an intermittent stench of fresh horse droppings.  Passing a bustling Sperry Chalet, we found reprieve from the persistent mosquitos that hounded us on the lower section of the trail, granting us a chance to stop and eat before continuing onward. Upon crossing underneath the waterfall spilling from Gunsight’s Northwest face, we encountered a sow grizzly with two cubs, one sporting a beautiful cinnamon tone, that strolled down the climbers’ trail that we had thankfully opted to avoid.  

Reaching the upper lake, we traveled cross-country to reach the base of the vertical rock, where firm snow presented us with our first obstacle of the day. Carefully dispatching the icy barrier, we traversed along the base of the pink and red quartzite face. Picking the finest-looking pitch to start our climb, we roped up and battled out a high-stakes game of rock-paper-scissors to determine who would start the team upward.  Cazell won and racked up with an ample amount of rock-pro before methodically picking his way through the solid rock. The pitch looked and sounded stellar. 

Cazell whooped his way through solid jams, ample protection, and glorious positive handholds that made the pitch one of the most enjoyable in Glacier. Gladly following the five-star pitch, a wide smile spread across my face as the final mantle ended a fantastic 50-meter rope length of cruiser climbing. Taking the sharp end of the rope, my pitch was quite lackluster compared to the first. Nonetheless, it deposited us atop the vertical band of rock guarding the lower-angle terrain ahead. We coiled the rope and switched our footwear back to approach shoes. From there, 800 feet of fourth and fifth-class scrambling stood between us and the lonely summit of Gunsight. We wasted no time and began pawing our way through the lower-angle rock. Nearing the summit, hundreds of monarch butterflies greeted us as they fluttered across the barren face, high above any hungry predators.  

The summit welcomed us as a brilliant afternoon sun spread across the distinguished peaks, reaching out in every direction. The Sperry Glacier basin gleamed in saturated hues, where the contrast from the Glacial lakes to the red rocks was marvelous. 

A gentle wind passed overhead as we rejoiced and ate lunch atop the impressive summit. Reaching for the summit register, we were surprised to find an empty canister that we replaced in hopes that the next climbers on the summit would be more prepared and leave a piece of paper for others to sign. Our descent was straightforward as we took the central tongue of loose blocks toward Comeau Pass to avoid the steep snow guarding the upper summit flanks. Nearly reaching the pass, we glissaded down slushy snow that deposited us at the shimmering lake atop Comeau. An afternoon snooze in the spongy meadow was interrupted by a friendly mountain goat that awoke us as he tried helping himself to our snacks. 

Continuing our descent, we passed a series of perfect cracks in the boulders below, and roped up one last time to shove our hands into perfect jams, treating ourselves to several bonus pitches.  The Sperry trail greeted us with open arms as we passed the Chalet once more, this time with a summit and several new climbs to satisfy our ambitions. Our pace became unhurried as we treated ourselves to the raspberries, huckleberries, and wild strawberries that filled the air with a sweet aroma.

Editor’s note: Off trail travel comes with its risks. Please do not hike or climb alone and as always, leave no trace.

    Adam Cazell scrambles up to the top of Gunsight Mountains Northwest face. Seth Anderson Photo.
 SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY   

    Lincoln Lake and Mount Jackson from atop Gunsight Mountain in Glacier Park. Seth Anderson Photo.
 SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY