Great pub treats from ‘merrie old England’

There’s a wonderful area about a quarter-mile square in London, that incorporates the great old Russell hotel, behind which is an alley hosting a local pub “A Friend at Hand” — and in front of which is the lovely Russell Square Park. Upon leaving the hotel, one may cross the park kitty-corner for a block’s walk to the venerable British Museum. Across the street from the museum is the venerable Museum Pub.  

I have been blessed by benign fate to have taken that stroll many times — for who could get tired of the Brit? However, it is not the museum which we consider today, but the pubs that serve their patrons — and the Museum Pub and Friend at Hand are two which I have frequented many times simply by virtue of lodging nearby. The daytime fare is the classic ploughman’s lunch or perhaps pasties — always available, but evening and the dinner hour provide a much larger repertoire of offerings. Herewith, some examples. Enjoy! 

Who has not heard of Cock-a-Leekie Soup? But did you know what was in it? 

Cock-A-Leekie Soup 

4 Servings 

2 1/2 Tbs. pearl barley 

1 tsp. unsalted butter 

1 boneless, skinless chicken breast half, cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips 

2 small leeks (white and pale green part only) cut into matchstick-size strips 

3 cups chicken or vegetable stock or canned low-salt broth 

1/4 cup prunes, cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips 

2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley 

Place barley in small bowl and cover with cold water. Let soak overnight; drain in the morning. Melt butter in medium nonstick saucepan over med-high heat. Add chicken, season with salt and pepper and sauté until just cooked through — about 2 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate. Add leeks to saucepan and cook over low heat till tender, about 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add barley and stir for 2 minutes or so. Add stock, bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover partially and simmer until barley is tender, under 20 minutes. Add chicken, prunes, and parsley to saucepan and simmer all together to heat through — 2 or 3 minutes. Serve in bowls with crusty rolls. 

Speaking of soups, Britain’s longtime rule over India brought some strange and wonderful fare to its people; such as the following famous example. 

Mulligatawny Soup 

(4 servings)   

4 Tbs. (1/2 stick) butter 

1 cup finely chopped onion 

2 cups finely chopped red bell peppers 

2 cups chopped unpeeled tart green apples 

2 Tbs. curry powder 

2 pints (about) low-salt chicken or vegetable broth 

2/3 cup long-grain white rice 

1 lb. uncooked boneless chicken, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 

Melt butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until just tender, about 5 minutes. Add bell peppers, apples and curry powder and sauté for 2 minutes, tossing gently. Add broth and rice and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook till rice is nearly tender — about 15 minutes. Add chicken. Cook uncovered till chicken and rice are tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Serve in bowls. 

The previously mentioned Friend at Hand pub tweaked some of the more classic dishes to appeal to American tastes — probably since they had such a large clientele from two large nearby hotels. Here’s an example (pictured). By the way, pastie is pronounced with the “a” as in the past. 

Broccoli and Cheese Pasties 

Serves 2 (or 4 if accompanied by salad) 

2 purchased frozen/thawed 9-inch pie shells, rolled out flat 

1 large bunch broccoli, cut into small florets 

1 1/2 cups packed grated sharp Cheddar cheese 

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions with tops 

1 1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill or 1 1/2 tsps. dried dillweed 

1/4 tsp. nutmeg 

1 egg, beaten with 1 Tb. water for crust glaze 

Preheat oven to 400F. In a pan, steam broccoli till crisp-tender, cool. Combine florets with remaining ingredients through nutmeg; dash with pepper and toss well in a bowl. Lay out the 2 crusts. Cut each in half, creating 4 half-circles. Mound 1/4 of the filling on half of each pastry; press filling to compact. Brush pastry edges with egg glaze. Fold empty half of each pastry over filling, pressing to seal edges and forming a triangle. With tines of fork, crimp pastry edges. Pierce pasties several times with sharp fork tines. Place on baking sheet, brush generously with glaze. Bake till golden brown — about 22 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes at room temperature before serving. Accompany with the traditional pickle at lunchtime or fruit for evening. 

Finally, the grandest treat of all — conceived long ago in Wales and updated for modern cooks. 

Sticky Toffee Pudding 

Pudding: 

3/4 cup cane sugar 

1/4 cup butter, room temperature 

1 large egg 

1 1/2 cups flour 

1 tsp. baking powder 

1 1/4 cups boiling water 

1 cup chopped pitted dates 

2 tsps. instant espresso/coffee powder 

1 tsp. vanilla extract 

1 tsp. baking soda 

Sauce: 

1/3 cup firm-packed brown sugar 

3 Tbs. unsalted butter 

2 Tbs. whipping cream 

For pudding: preheat oven to 350F. Butter six 3/4-cup custard cups. *  

With electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in large bowl until combined. Add egg and beat for 2 minutes. Stir in flour and baking powder and beat for 1 minute. Mix boiling water, dates, espresso powder, vanilla and baking soda in a metal bowl. Add to butter mixture; beat until well blended. Divide batter among prepared cups; bake until golden-brown and tester inserted in center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Transfer to rack, cool for 10 minutes. 

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Bring all sauce ingredients to simmer in a heavy small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar. Simmer for 3 minutes, stirring often. Preheat the broiler. Pour sauce over warm puddings, broil till slightly caramelized — 2 minutes. Serve immediately. 

* You may bake the pudding in a buttered 8x8-inch baking dish, but watch carefully, testing for doneness. 

Editor's note: For many years, Valle Novak wrote gardening and cooking columns for the Daily Bee. "Weekend Gardener" and "Country Chef" became renowned for their humor, information, and common-sense advice on how to do everything from planting to cooking. She left behind many columns such as this one to delight her many fans.

    A pub and dinnertime staple, cock-a-leekie soup is a delightful addition to any meal.
  

    Conceived long ago in Wales, sticky toffee pudding has been updated for modern cooks in this recipe.
  

    Valle Novak