A perfect day on Pumpelly Pillar

Catching the last seat on the 100-year-old “Sinopah” tourist ferry across Two Medicine Lake in Glacier National Park, Nick Sramek grinned ear to ear as we puttered across the glass-like lake. We peered through the portside window as the Pumpelly Pillar Spire, our climbing goal for the day, came into view high above Two Medicine Lake. The Pumpelly Pillar is a steep spired pinnacle on the eastern ridge of Mount Helen. The Pillar is a prominent landmark in the Two Medicine Valley formed by Glacial erosion on each of its sides, carving out the steep spire.

After a short bushwack, we neared the base of the climb when two large grizzlies appeared and sprinted straight towards us before thankfully beelining down through the brush below. The adrenaline didn’t leave our bloodstreams until we reached the base of the prominent chimney marking the start of the route. 

Taking the first roped pitch of the day, I stemmed and chimnied through well-protected rock to reach a comfortable belay big enough to lie down at. Relaxing was the last thing on my mind as the next pitch loomed overhead with bated breath. A series of overhangs and thin, difficult cracks awaited above my plush belay ledge. Carefully picking my way past the teetering blocks, I danced through long runouts and sustained climbing to reach another large ledge high above Two Medicine. From here, Nick took the lead through two enjoyable pitches ending just below the summit. 

We rejoiced on the summit before checking our watches and realizing we could catch the last boat back to Two Med if we hurried. Countless rappels whizzed by as we reached our empty packs stashed at the base, thankfully unscathed by any curious rodents. We jammed our gear into packs in a frantic effort to save the $10 we spent on return tickets. Running with a full backpack through Two Medicine wasn’t my first choice, but reaching the last boat of the day left a smile on Nick and I’s faces that would stick around all the way back to the dock.

    Nick Sramek stems across a void while climbing Pumpelly Pillar, a spur off the eastern ridge of Mount Helen in Two Medicine.
 SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY   

    Nick Sramek stems across a void while climbing Pumpelly Pillar, a spur off the eastern ridge of Mount Helen in Two Medicine.
 SETH ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY